How to Capture Moving Water with a Conventional Camera
I was surprised to get this result using an iPhone hand held using nothing more special than the Project Indigo app. It made me stop and think how I would have captured it traditionally.
If you want to achieve the same milky flow and rich texture seen in this image using a traditional camera, here’s how:
Handheld Using Project Indigo - Computational Photography
🎒 What You’ll Need
Camera (DSLR, mirrorless, bridge, or compact)
Tripod – absolutely essential to keep the camera steady during long exposures
Neutral Density (ND) Filter – a darkened glass filter that reduces the light entering your lens, allowing for slower shutter speeds in daylight
Remote shutter release (or self-timer) – to avoid camera shake when pressing the shutter
📸 Camera Settings
Mode: Set your camera to Manual (M) or Shutter Priority (S/TV).
Shutter Speed: Aim for 1 to 2 seconds to smooth out water movement. You may need longer depending on how fast the water is flowing.
Aperture: Use a small aperture (e.g., f/11 to f/16) to ensure good depth of field and reduce light.
ISO: Keep it low (e.g., ISO 100) to minimise noise and extend the exposure time.
Focus: Manually focus on the tree root or nearest point of interest before starting the exposure.
🧪 The ND Filter Effect
Without an ND filter, your image will likely be overexposed, even at f/16. An ND filter reduces the incoming light—like sunglasses for your lens—so you can use slower shutter speeds even in daylight.
ND8: good for early morning or shaded conditions
ND64 or ND1000: needed in full sun to get several seconds of exposure
🧽 Final Tip
Keep an eye on the histogram and check your image for blown highlights, especially in the water. Bracket exposures if needed—and don’t forget to review focus and sharpness at 100% zoom to ensure the roots and bark are as crisp as the moving water is smooth.